An evening stroll across Hogg Market in Calcutta brought me to the shop of Mullick & Sons, neatly adorned within glass boxes were sandesh shaped, India’s last gift from the Portuguese, the Bandel Cheese.
Available in only two stores across Kolkata, the business is more a monopoly and those who know their cheese, can vouch for this one. It is available in two versions-dry and moist . while the moist is extremely salty, the dried one needs to be soaked overnight in water to moisten it and reduce it’s saltyness.The cheese is brined and smoked hence giving an overpowering but beautiful smokey taste. Semi soft and textured more like paneer, it is also as crumbly as Feta cheese and can be nicely seated like Haloumi or goat’s cheese.
At INR 8 per piece, I bought a hefty packet to satisfy my culinary experiments and came to conclusion that they can be used in just about any pasta or western preparations. The early Portuguese settlers could not stay away from cheese and hence found an alternative, the Bandel Cheese. The speciality of this cheese is that it is smoked with hay and hence receives a distinct smokey aroma and tastes similar to bacon. How many of us knew that India also has its alternative of smoked cheddar and haloumi? Grate it on your carbonara or sear it like a salad.
Not only Bandel Cheese, Indians are not aware of its indigenous cheeses! Paneer and chenna are old school now, the ones I am going to name next have been there for centuries.
- Kalari – From the Udhampur region of J&K, Kalari is a dense cheese which is ripened for over 6 months and traditionally grilled till the outside turns crisp and the inside is moist and gooey, making it an alternative for classical Warm Beetroot & Goat’s Cheese Salad. Kalari cheese can also be spread over burger patties and the salty, briney texture goes equally good.
- Churrpi- Traditionally from Sikkim, Churrpi has a silky creamy texture and is prepared from Yak’s milk. Yak’s milk contains high amount of fatty acid which gives this cheese a rich texture, almost like ricotta or mozzarella. The cheese is pressed in jute bags and stuffed in dumplings or served melted over rice. Chicken roulade with ricotta? Why not churrpi?
I have personally experimented with these cheeses and came up with this western classics with indigenous cheeses-
Pan Seared Bandel Cheese Salad.
Bandel Cheese Spread with al and fine herbs
Ever since I have tasted Boursin Cheese with fine al and herbs, I grew fond of it. The harmonious taste of garlic with herbs and the soft cheese from the French Reviera, oh! What a delightful taste! Well now you can also make a smokey, garlicky cheese spread.
Beetroot Burger with Kalari & Onion Jam
Spaghetti Sorrentina with Bandel Cheese
It is always of great pleasure to use and recommend such underrated indigenous products to be curated into luxury and comforting dishes. It is a good time to embrace our secret culinary gems like these cheeses and implement them in everyday cooking, this way you encourage sustainable food revolution!